Rags and Riches: Dress and Dress Accessories in Social Context

On Saturday Malika Kraamer, Curator of World Cultures at New Walk Museum and Art Gallery, and I, will be presenting a paper at the University of Reading on the subject of Japanese saris: a really fascinating aspect of British Asian fashion we undercovered during our preliminary research for ‘Suits & Saris’.

From the conference website:

Rags and Riches: Dress and Dress Accessories in Social Context
21 April 2012, University of Reading
This one day conference at the University of Reading aims to bring together archaeologists, anthropologists and others from related disciplines to discuss current issues of methodology, theory and interpretation of dress and dress accessories.

It is hoped that the conference will facilitate multidisciplinary dialogue by encouraging to those researching both historic and contemporary modes of dress, and those working in archaeological, art-historical or anthropological frameworks, to present.

The programme for the day can be downloaded here.

We’re hoping a paper might emerge from the presentation in the near future.

‘Suits and Saris’ and ‘Unravelled’: now open!

Last week was extraordinarily exciting and exhausting. On Monday I bought a flat (!!!) and led a tour of Leicester’s more weird and wonderful sites for the delegates of Museum Utopias. The weather was absolutely gorgeous (hard to believe now, as I sitting here watching the rain, sleet and snow outside my window). There are some pics from the afternoon here.

Museum Utopias (blog) kicked off for real on Tuesday, and continued into Wednesday. I was involved with organising and delivering the Future Museum Game (trademark). It would be way too complicated to explain here, but we were delighted that the delegates really engaged with the task at hand and entered into the (slightly surreal) spirit of the exercise with gusto.

On Friday…well, on Friday I got a new job! (More about that later.) But it was also notable for the private view and launch of ‘Suits and Saris‘, the exhibition I had been working on for the last eighteen months, or so, with a curatorial team comprised of youth and community members, alongside museum professionals. A very emotional and rather overwhelming experience, it was a delight to see so many happy faces at the launch. It really seems to have captured people’s imagination, and I’m absolutely delighted with how it has turned out. The project involved many, many hours of hard work but, seeing the result, it was most definitely worth it! The exhibition is open until 7th October 2012, at New Walk Museum & Art Gallery, Leicester. Free entry.

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1970s ‘Japanese’ saris on display at Suits and Saris
(The purple and red examples were found by me in Oxfam!)

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‘Body Conscious’ at Suits and Saris (my baby)

The excitement didn’t end there. On Saturday I visited ‘Unravelled‘ at Nottingham – an exhibition curated by Nottingham Castle Museum’s Illuminate youth panel. They have produced a fantastic exhibition (IMO streets ahead of the ‘big’ loan exhibition, ‘Living in Silk’, that it accompanies) and I’m immensely proud of the interpretation group, who I worked with in January and February on developing interpretive text for the exhibition. They are brilliant!

As part of the project, the Illuminate team made a short stop-motion film (alongside a ‘how we made it’ doc) inspired by objects in the Castle Museum’s permanent collection. Do watch; it’s lovely.

The exhibition is open until 16th September, at Nottingham Castle Museum. Entrance fee applies.

Both ‘Suits and Saris’ and ‘Unravelled’ are part of ‘Dress the World‘, the East Midlands’ contribution to ‘Stories of the World’, the museum strand of the Cultural Olympiad 2012.

Modern Art Asia Issue 9: Special Issue on Yayoi Kusama

I’m pleased to announce that the latest issue (March 2012) of the journal Modern Art Asia - which I help to edit – is now online.

To coincide with the opening of a major Yayoi Kusama exhibit at Tate Modern – her first retrospective in the UK – and the translation of her autobiography, Infinity Net,  into English, this issue presents three research papers offering new perspectives on the life and practice of this internationally regarded Japanese artist…

New Job!

Quite unexpectedly, but with great pleasure I find myself once more employed by the School of Museum Studies at the University of Leicester. I’m covering some aspects of Katy Bunning‘s – the  Programme Director for Distance Learning – workload for three months, while she is involved in a special project. The job delivers lots of CV points. I’m working 5 hours a day, which leaves me plenty of time for my writing projects (must make a start on those!) and for finishing off my work with Nottingham Museums on their Stories of the World exhibition.

I couldn’t be happier!

Dress the World

The Dress the World website is now online and features the two exhibition projects I’ve recently been working on: ‘Suits and Saris’ at New Walk Museum and Art Gallery, Leicester and ‘Unravelled’ at Nottingham Castle Museum (more about that in a future post).

From the website:

Dress the World is a collaborative programme of three 2012 exhibitions, celebrating the global exchanges that have shaped and continue to shape fashion in the East Midlands. It is part of the national Stories of the World strand of the London 2012 Cultural Olympiad, aiming to showcase to a worldwide audience, innovation and excellence in UK museums, libraries and archives.

 

 

Research Agent for Hire

Given the rather precarious state of arts and humanities research in universities and museums at the moment, I’ve been thinking about how I can use my skills more widely. I already take on the occasional bit of freelance academic indexing and editing, but that won’t keep the wolf from the door.

I love researching, researching anything. And I’m good at it. I have held several research assistant posts over the last couple of years. Spending time in archives and libraries sure beats indexing! 

There must be people (individuals, parish councils, companies, etc) out there with a family painting, or a local landmark they’d like to find out more about, or a dusty archive that deserves new attention.

And so an idea has been forming in my mind recently. How about setting myself up as a researcher for hire?

Today I am putting the plan into action. I’m looking for small, local (East Midlands in the first instance) projects to pilot my idea.  I’ll charge a flat rate fee (negotiable at outset) and, at the end of the project, produce a glossy, high quality book detailing my research findings.

Please do get in touch if you’d like to find out more!

 

 

 

Here after this…OBJECT EXCHANGE

Ipswich is a place that sometimes seems to struggle with ‘culture’. It has a rich heritage, medieval buildings, top-notch art and costume collections, yet the Borough Council has, IMHO, consistently overlooked the benefits of supporting and promoting art and culture in the town over the last few decades. In 2007 the responsibility for the management of the town’s museums and art galleries passed to Colchester Museums Service. Not just a different town, but a town in another county! When the old Ipswich Art School building reopened in 2010 with an exhibition of works from the Saatchi collection (a huge boon for the town), Andrew Cain, portfolio holder for culture and sport at Ipswich Borough Council proudly stated that ‘there’s very little public money going into this’. Kind of says it all really, doesn’t it?*

Thankfully, the working relationship with Colchester, seems to be bearing fruit. A redevelopment plan for Ipswich Museum has recently been drawn up, in partnership with, amongst others, The British Museum, University Campus Suffolk and Suffolk New College (which, incidentally, still owns the Art School site). A key component of this plan is the purchase of the Art School – well-known and respected in its day and counting Maggi Hambling and Brian Eno among its alumni.

The Art School is currently hosting exhibitions by local artists Chinwe Chukwuogo-Roy and Gareth Bayliss. But is was ‘Here after this…OBJECT EXCHANGE’ that caught my eye. I decided to pay a visit.

Billed as an interactive installation, ‘Here after this…OBJECT EXCHANGE’ invites visitors to swap objects for their own items in a nod to letter-boxing and geocaching, creating a shifting display of ephemeral objects, in response to their own ideas about cultural exchange, communication and display (I lifted that last bit from the Art School website).

The installation comprises two wall-mounted shelves, upon which are arranged a series of numbered objects, accompanied by record books. The instructions on the wall invite visitors to remove an object that they find a particular association with, on the understanding that they replace it with something else that they are happy to leave at the gallery, and for someone else to take away. The ‘new’ object is photographed by gallery staff and logged in the record book, along with some brief information provided by the participant, about why they chose the object they took away and some details about the object they left.

On browsing through the record books it was clear that the majority have left things like food vouchers and tea bags – stuff they’ve found in their handbags, or pockets. Although some people have left more unique and personal objects, like self-made left-handled mugs and holiday souvenirs. Demographic information is not collected (at least, it’s not logged in the record books), but is clear from given names, the different wants and needs expressed, and the handwriting, that participants have been drawn from a range of backgrounds and ages.

While some of the objects might raise a few eyebrows (an unused tampon, for example), the ethos behind the installation is that it’s not, so much, the form and function of an object that is important (all inclusions are valid, according to the curatorial advice provided on the website), but the process: the trade and the meaning of the new object added or exchanged to the individual participant. After all, one man’s rubbish is another’s treasure. It is hoped that the log books will ultimately reveal how one type of object lead to each other, or, at least, that is the stated aim of the project.

These objects are accompanied by a selection of objects – printed fabric, video recordings and beadwork – from Ipswich Museum’s collection. These have been chosen by curators to provide a material and visual meeting-point between the two featured exhibitors – Chukwuogo-Roy and Bayliss (again, this last bit has been unashamedly nicked from the website).

So, what did I think?

I was impressed! The exhibition strikes me as the just the sort of project that museums and galleries should be organising in these straitened times. It offers a simple, low-tech, and inexpensive (read sustainable) way of engaging visitors’ of all ages and backgrounds, of exploring ‘museumification’ (this ticking the ‘reflexive praxis’ box) and putting less-often seen collections on display (accessibility, revisiting collections, other buzz-words). It certainly created a lot of debate amongst visitors while I was there – people seemed to enjoy the experience of picking objects up, flicking through the log books and reflecting on participants’ comments. The installation gave visitors permission to transgress those conventions of gallery-visits – not to touch, not to talk, and certainly not to find humour in what they saw and read. It also, hopefully, gave the people who took part a greater sense of ownership in, and appreciation of the value of the Art School and Borough collections. All good things.

Before I leave off, I also want to mention a few other things that caught my eye. The first, is the Common Room, which echoes the building’s former function as an educational institution. It gives visitors of all ages permission to react to the objects and ideas expressed in exhibitions at the Art School by drawing all over the walls – fantastic! Sadly, this function is drawing to an end, but will be replaced by works responding to objects in the museum’s collection by students of University Campus Suffolk and Suffolk New College, which on balance, is not a bad thing to promote.

I was also really cheered to see that the Art School had publicly recognises its regular volunteers by listing their names on a wall adjacent to the logos of official partners and friends of the development scheme. They are clearly highly valued.

Kudos also for the ingenious method of recording milestones in the fund-raising drive.

My summation – museums and galleries could learn something about low-tech, sustainable approaches to community engagement from Ipswich Art School. Definitely worth a visit should you find yourself in the area.

Ipswich Art School, High Street, Ipswich, Suffolk.
Open 10.00-17.00, Tuesday to Sunday. 

*Perhaps some of my ire is sour grapes. I should disclose that I did my school work experience (at 15 years old) at Ipswich Museum. That fortnight effectively put me off museum work for six years. In spite of that bad experience, I tried to volunteer there during my MA in Museum Studies, and they were simply not interested (I note that they are actively seeking volunteers at the moment). I also had a horrible, soul-destroying meeting with one of the curators, who spent several hours bashing my self-confidence and doing down Museum Studies in Leicester. When I finally managed to get some voluntary work with another museum site in Ipswich, post-MA AND curatorial experience at a museum in London (as well as specialist knowledge of some parts of the collection) I was put on ‘toilet-direction’ and ‘goth displacement’ duties. Yeah, boughs of sour grapes, mate. Anyway…